We spent a few days in Goa. We  organised phones, went to the market, we saw a jazz band, we watched the sun set, we had way too much to drink and eat, all the usual tourist things. But by the new year, it was time to go. We went and had dinner at a local restaurant, and headed back to the hotel. We did actually wake up when the fireworks went off at midnight, so we did technically see in the new year. For about 30 seconds before we fell asleep again.

The next morning started out as many first mornings have on our adventures. We pack the bags, take them down, struggle to remember how to strap them down, argue about it, eventually do a departure video, jump on the bikes and leave.

On the road.

This year, Dalma struggled more than usual on the first day. It’s understandable. She’s been too busy to ride much for the past few months. She was fine on the freeways. But NH66 doesn’t stay freeway and we found ourselves on a tightly winding two-lane highway with large buses and trucks and cars and bikes all pushing to get a few metres ahead. We eventually stopped for lunch at a roadside restaurant, and Dalma let loose the waterworks a bit.

We had lunch and re-evaluated. It was 1pm and we’d averaged 30kph. To get to Gokarna would be another two hours. Over our Thali, I looked at the map, and found a resort 10 minutes away that looked reasonable: Palola. We turned off and headed for it. It was very busy and full of white tourists, but rather charming. After asking at a few places, we found a room in a hotel called Dreamcatcher. We later found that our friend Punkaj had stayed there years before, and that the fee of Rs.3,500 was very reasonable for the time of year.

That night as the sun sank and we regarded the beach from the comfort of a beach bar and waited for our grilled fish while watching the bonfire grow, we talked about life and the future. it was a satisfying evening.

Sunset at Palolem.